Circular Saw Lightweight Skill Plunge Trim Cordless Corded Charger
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Makitas 5377MG (7-1/4") magnesium hypoid saw with a number of revolutionizing technologies has singlehandedly established a new line of evolved circular saw. The saws motor is not only immensely powerful (2300 W) but also features a compressed winding technology keeping the overall size of the motor compact and durable. The saws magnesium components keep the saw ultra-lightweight well-balanced and surprisingly durable. The term "hypoid" in the saws name refers to its heat treated hypoid steel gears. These wickedly efficient gears are hardly as susceptible to standard wear as are traditional bronze-alloy worm drive gears. Additionally the tool incorporates an oil bath technology designed with a sealed gear housing and a built-in fan to ensure a complete oil surface coating; ultimately the hypoid gears are terribly efficient with more power and suave than traditional worm drive gears and with the help of the oil bath they are nearly maintenance free.
Its generally used in framing roofing and carpentry. Usually these saws are heavier larger and provide more torque to help cut through denser woods and handle the tough demands of a work site. The Direct Drive Circular Saw: This is a more compact circular saw than the typical worm-drive saw. As the name suggests the cutting blade is directly attached to the motor. These can be very powerful but this is also the type of design used in some underpowered and cheaply manufactured saws. Lets look at the key differences between these two designs: - Line of Sight: Looking at these two categories of saws one of the first differences is the side of the saw that holds the blade. The hypoid and worm-drive saws have the blade on the left side of the saw which for many people means improved line of sight to the cutting blade during use. Most direct-drive hand held circular saws have the blade on the right side. People accustomed to this design may prefer it.
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Sometimes however using a table saw to trim the top of a huge conference table for instance turns out to be an impossible task especially when trying to trim off the ends at 90 degrees to the sides. Thats when a very carefully planned approach using a circular saw seems to deliver the best final result. I would draw a pencil line using a long straightedge exactly where I wanted the trim cut to go. I would then carefully measure the distance between the inside (or outside) of the saw blade and the edge of the foot plate of the saw. The next step would be a second pencil line parallel to the first one and separated from it by the distance I measured between the inside (or outside) of the saw blade and the edge of the foot plate. I would locate an absolutely straight board (ripped straight on the table saw if necessary) and clamp this across the table top as a guide along the second pencil line. Then I could make a pretty straight cut along the first pencil line. I would then repeat this for the other end of the table top. In the past few years this process has become a whole lot easier. There are now several makes and models of plunge saws that run along metal guide rails cutting right next to the edge of the rail without cutting into the rail itself. The guide rails dont even need to be clamped to the surface being cut because they have material underneath that keeps them from sliding around. If you feel more comfortable clamping down the guide rail this can be done as well.